First, there is no time to relax....

Rosemary (my roommate for the whole trip) and I lucked out and were able to swing a room to ourselves with AIR CONDITIONING up the way. It turned out this little suite was available until Friday when more guests for the wedding were coming in. Therefore, we had a wonderful nights sleep and decided to let the rest of our party enjoy the morning alone. Rosemary and I decided we would walk up the village, take some pictures and have some morning coffee and pastry. We spent a good hour climbing stairs, climbing through little alcoves, and taking massive amounts of pictures. We then stopped in at the only little café that also served as a mini mart sort of place and had some Greek coffee and a glorious lemony pastry for breakfast. We relaxed, enjoyed the conversation of each other and listening to the conversations of the villagers there.

After we finished our breakfast, we returned to the main house to a panicked Meghan and Louis who needed to get into town as soon as possible to pick out a cake for the christening. Apparently, they were waiting on us because they knew we were going to want to go shopping... and Tinos Town is 20 minutes down the hill. So, as quickly as we possibly could, we crammed into the car and headed out to the bakery. And OH MY GOD what a bakery!! Cake was not even on the menu for us. The desserts were smooth and creamy and oh so sweet and I just salivate every time I think about them! Meghan and Louis decided that individual treats would be best.

After we choose the tastiest of the tasty desserts, we went off to the main center of town to a bit of shopping. Now, shopping in this town is actually pretty simple because it is all in one place. However, when you have two jet lagged kids and a couple who also need to talk to the photographer, it gives a little complicated. Rosemary and I each took a child and off we went. We were able to do a little window shopping on our own, until Perrin found the local toy store. I think I spent an hour in that store just trying to find one toy he may want to get. Most of the stores sold the usual tourist wares: clothes, pottery, and cheap souvenirs. I bought some. Next stop after pseudo shopping? Souvlakia!! We sat at the cute little taverna on the corner and ordered an array of appetizers, salads and souvlakia. Now, in Greece, meal time is something you do not rush through. Be prepared to spend at least an hour if not two or three or four sitting, eating, talking, listening, eating some more. The wait staff will not deliver the check until you ask for it and tip is usually included in the meal. You can conceivably sit down and spend all afternoon just sitting in the taverna. We sat down at about 3 in the afternoon and noticed something strange: all of the shops were closing up. Now, I was not sure if the last ferry had arrived for the day or not, but closing at 3 was a little odd. The taverna remained open of course so we ate and decided that Tinos Town shopping would have to continue another day. Little did we know that Tinos Town turns into a party 3 hours later! But the real question I am asking myself now is: “How the hell did I get out of Tinos Town without a single picture?” Tomorrow: the cute little village of Volax: home of the best omelet I have ever had.

Travel Time: TInos

So the day after the Acropolis was a travel day. We left bright and early Tuesday morning (July 12th) before the sun was up to hit the port of Rafina and catch a ferry to the wonderful island of Tinos. I have to tell you; Greece’s ferries put ours to shame! It was windy and it was chilly, but the sky and the sea were a brilliant blue and a bad day on the water is better than a good day at work, so off we went.

I was still quite jet lagged so after a cup of Greek coffee and some sort of pizza like pie thingy, I headed up to the upper deck to catch some z’s. There were plenty of passengers up there that had the same idea as me, but luckily I found a bench where I could stretch out and enjoy the sunshine; so much so, my feet were tanned with my sandal straps. It was going to take a week to get rid of that tan line. We arrive in Tinos about 4 hours later, sometime around midday I think and Louis had rented a car for us to use on the island. Now remember, we are four adults and two children –both which should be in a car seat, but only one was able to fit–PLUS all of our luggage. Luckily, Georgia had stuffed her car full of our luggage. We piled in and headed to the local grocery store. You want to know about a place—go to the grocery store. It was small, but it was effective. There was the largest area of cheeses and olives I have ever seen. Finally, I may find an olive I can eat.

We load up our loot and drive about 20 minutes up a very windy, switchbacky road to the village of Kardiani. We were greeted by a group of wonderful people who turned out to be Louis’ aunt, uncle and a variety of others that were in town for the wedding (that was in four days). Everyone was so friendly and welcoming. Georgia helped us unload and pointed us down a flight of steps to our humble abode for the next 9 days. It is safe to say here, that Greeks, for the most part, in this village live quite simply. The house had 4 rooms: 1 master bedroom, one very small room that I guess was a bedroom, a dining room and a kitchen. There was also an indoor bathroom too. It turns out a lot of the houses are built this way–small and simple. Here in America, we are used to our large family rooms with large TV’s and couches. The family rooms in Greece are mostly small or outdoors. The house we stayed in did not have a seating room–just the kitchen table and two chairs in the dining area. It also reminded me of old world Europe—because the person who lived there was old. But when all you need is a place to sleep, it was perfect.

We spent the rest of the time exploring the small area where we were and eating at the Taverna that was 20 feet away from us. It was a beautiful start to a lovely 10 days.

Acropolis

I know it has been a long time since I have posted, but believe it or not, I have found a place in Earth with no internet service. It is Kardiani, Tinos, Greece and it is a village that is easily hundreds of years old.

However, over a week ago, I visited the Acropolis. Here is my brief account. I will try to post pictures over some time....

Acropolis

Getting around in Athens is fairly easy if you can locate a bus route map and a train map. Finding the train map was not difficult, but the bus station map was not. Louis' father, Peter suggested that instead of taking the tram train into town, we should take the bus. He told us where to catch the bus that would take us to the train stop and then on to the Acropolis. Well, first I should mention that he was going to meet us at the hotel, then accompany us to the Acropolis. Louis said that Peter would meet us tfor breakfast at 830 and then we would go. I bet Louis 10 Euros that there was no way that was goingto happen....and I won. I was up and down at breakfast at 8. I did not see anyone else until about 9-930. We were all exhausted. I was having trouble sleeping and the kids schedules were off and they were irritable. We didn't get started for the Acropolis until about mid-day, and Peter thought it would be too hot, so he decided not to go. That's when we had to brave the busses on our own. Now, I was perfectly willing to take the tram in because I understood that schedule, but the tight ride yesterday sort of left everyone wanting a better ride.

The bus driver told Louis to ride this to the end of the stop and get off. What Louis did not realize is that this bus made a continuous loop around it's route. About 3 stops heading back the direction we came, I alerted Louis that I thought we were headed back to the hotel. He asked the bus driver and it turned out to be that I was right. We got off the bus, waited 15 minutes for the next one, and then got on again. Then, I told Louis where to catch the train. I feel it is odd that I can figure out how to get around and I don't even speak Greek.

WE caught the train to the Acropolis and it turned out the Peter was going to meet us anyway. We stopped at a small bakery to feed the children and ourselves before we began the accent up the hill. I have to tell you that at mid-day in Athens, it is about 100 degrees. I had been guzzling water all morning and still did not get enough. We kept stopping to rest, to something for the kids, figure out how to buy tickets, take pictures, bathroom, whatever. It seemed like it took hours just to get there. And when I finally made it inside and up the steep steps, I thought I was going to die from heat exhaustion. I was overheated, dehydrated and my sugar was LOW. I found the bathrooms down below and then took a few minutes to try and cool off before going back out. Meghan and the crew finally came up after me and luckily she had a Lara bar to eat. I felt better and began to snap 100 pictures of the oldest ruins I had ever see. And it was AMAZING!

The Parthenon is huge. I have no idea how someone could make such a building without the use of a crane. It was beautiful. We were not allowed to touch the marble on any of the structures and I wanted very badly to go inside, but that was not allowed. I took panoramic shots of the entire city of Athens. You can see the ocean from up there even though you are somewhat on the inner part of the city. It was hot, it was dusty and it was windy, but it was amazing.

Day 2: Asian Christian Singers are Scarey.

So, Sunday in Athens was quite a day. The time seems to go by very fast here. We were supposed to get up and have breakfast around 830am, but our alarm keeper kept hitting snooze and we did not get up until way past 9. Rosemary, Meghan's mom and my roommate, woke me up for breakfast. Meghan made it down just before 10 to grab a bite to eat, but everyone else (Louis, Perrin—age 4 and Lena age 15 mos) did not make it up before 11.

We left the hotel sometime around midday and decided to brave the tram into town for some shopping. Figuring out how to buy tickets was a pain. Turns out if you are sneaky and lucky, you can ride the tram for free. But we eventually figured it out, and did pay our way. Greece does need the money.

We went to the giant flea market downtown where you can get off the train and look straight up at the Acropolis. There are even ruins to check out in the train station. It took awhile, but I believe that I can now navigate the Greek train stations on my own. The hardest part is deciphering the Greek names, even if they are in English.

One funny side-story about the trip on the train:

There were these two young men that got on the tram with us at the beach. They were dressed in trunks and had a soccer ball with them. One had a black eye and was loaded with tattoos. In America, he'd probably be considered a thug. On the train, they both started to dribble the soccer ball with their feet. It got away from them one time and ended up hitting Rosemary, Meghan's mom right in the nose. She began to laugh and so I did too, but the guy with the black eye was MORTIFIED. It was so cute! This thug looking guy, who could not speak English, folded his hands together and bowed to Rosemary in the most apologetic way and then went to literally stand in a corner facing the wall of the train. The other guy could speak some English and did apologize to Rosemary, but we were all laughing it off. Rosemary even added “I guess I should have used my head.”

The flea market was a great place to shop for souvenirs and vulgar t-shirts. We picked up a few postcards and fun items, but the best shopping was in a small little jewelry and bead shop on the taverna avenue. This guy evidently used to make and supply Pier One with all of their jewelry. He was an old guy, but he knew so much history. We must have spent an hour in that shop looking at beads and talking to the old man. He said he lived in Chicago for awhile and considers himself both American and Greek.

I do have to mention that the hardest part about this trip so far has been dealing with the kids. They are good children in general, but their internal clocks are messed up and when they are tired, they are even more cranky than I am...and you know how that can be.

About 4pm we decided to start looking for a place to eat. I do want to mention here that since my phone does not work here, I have not been keeping up with the time at all. I had no idea it was so late, but it explained why I was so hungry. We picked a lovely spot outside where we could look up and see the Acropolis. Louis, our only Greek speaking person, ordered us some lunch. We had a Greek Salad, which I need to mention does NOT come with lettuce, an eggplant spread that was incredible, stuffed tomatoes, Moussaka, Lamb “ribs”, and a gyro for Perrin. All of it was WONDERFUL. I think I could eat here forever.



We entered the train station which I would guess would be around rush hour. I was thinking that the tram as so crowded for this particular reason, but I had forgotten it was Sunday. With each stop, the train became more and more crowded. People just kept getting on and no one was getting off. Lena began one of her famous screaming and kicking fits, and by the time we had gotten about 10 stops into the trip, Perrin was crammed up against the tram walls and was having trouble breathing. I made the decision that we should all get off early because we had to change trains anyway and this was just unsafe. Apparently, there was a beach concert that night. The train was filled with drunk people and a group of Asian Jesus freaks. I know they were Jesus freaks because they were singing Christian songs in English on the train. I think that was the worst hell...worse than the Philadelphia Airport.

After the hellacious train ride back to our hotel, it was already 730 and we had promised Perrin ice cream, so he got ice cream, I got a frappe and we finally made it to Georgia and Marco's around 9pm for dinner. There was no ouzo this evening, but I did get the rest of the milk pie.

I have been also trying to pick up some of the language here and my Spanish classes plus my southern drawl make it a bit difficult. I keep wanting to give everything a long vowel sound plus I put the accent on the wrong syllable. I am constantly getting corrected but how else am I going to learn this? Greek is hard. Luckily, most places of business do speak English...or at least enough to tell me how much something costs.

Today, we are headed back downtown to the Acropolis. I am looking forward to seeing the ruins but it is going to be a hot day. Tomorrow, we leave very early for the island of Tinos. I am ready to do some relaxing.

Arrival Day: Athens, Greece

Athens Day one was rather a blur. I arrived at the airport in Athens two hours later than planned. I had taken two Advil pm and a NyQuil and had fallen dead asleep on the plane. I was awakened by someone who wanted to know if I wanted some coffee. It was 235am our time. I got off the plane, happily went through immigration, found my bag that, thankfully, the airport did not loose, and then went through customs without so much as a “got anything to declare?” Apparently coming back through the US is going to be more difficult. When the doors opened to exit, there were about 100 people lining the area looking for arrived passengers. I saw no one I knew. It was a bit intimidating. Then I heard Louis shout “Shelley!” and was relieved to find that I had, in fact, landed in the right country.

The ride through town to the Hotel was an adventure. There are apparently not many traffic rules in Athens. Apparently, there is no speed limit, passing is done at your own risk, and motorcycles and scooters weave in and out of cars. There are no helmet laws. As a matter of fact, the only ones I saw wearing helmets were the police. I tried not to pay too much attention to the traffic. I was a little frightened. But OMG this place is so amazing. The water is green, the food is amazing and the people are very nice and helpful. I thought with the excitement of the morning that I could handle the days activities whatever they were and then make it through the night. However, after some lunch, I was ready for a nap. Actually, I think I was already comatose at the table. Luckily, everyone else wanted to sleep too. I hit the bed and slept for a solid two hours. When we got up, we dressed for the beach and went for a swim. The water is a bit more chilly than it is back home. I was feeling more like a human. We came back to the hotel, showered and walked about 3 blocks up the road to Georgia and Marco's small apartment for dinner. These are the two that are getting married on Tinos in a week. They were so gracious. We had souvlaki and ouzo and the best milk pie in Athens. We did not leave their house until 1:00 in the morning—6pm est. I went to sleep at 2am. I was exhausted.


Other notes of interest: the weather is much the same as it is n NC right now—HOT. The measure in Celsius so that has been fun math. Everyone I have encountered speaks English too. The public beaches are crowded and a bit dirty...as in they don't clean up after themselves very well. Wear sunscreen. Off the balcony of the hotel, I can look left and see mountains. I can Look right and see the Sarconic Gulf. I am in love.

Getting Ready

καλωσόρισμα or Ka-lo-so-ri-zo—Which means “welcome” in Greek!

I thought this would be a great way to display all the wonderful adventures I will be on this summer. To start off, I will be spending 3 glorious weeks in Greece. During this period of time, I will be traveling to Athens, Tinos, and Chalkans (I think). I know there is so much more out there, but these are the three dealt for this particular trip.

How did this happen? Well, I was sitting at my friend Meghan's table one afternoon as she explained about her upcoming trip to Greece and all they would be doing. And then she invited me to come along. And so, within the next week or so I bought a plane ticket and started the extensive packing list that comes from someone who not only has never been to Europe but also packs very much like a girl. How do I even begin to try to get all the stuff I may need or not need into a carry on bag---and now especially since I am flying out of Philadelphia, it is essential that I pack a carry on bag. Luckily, I can recommend the guys at www.onebag.com for any help you may need in the future. They were quite helpful.

So the current plans are to leave for Greece, spend a few days in Athens, hop a boat to Tinos, attend a wedding, a christening, and name day celebrations, island hop around if I can, sit on a beach, climb a mountain...or large hill, see all kinds of sights, eat lots of food, find an olive I actually like, and then go back to the mainland, and head home.

Now, while I am writing this, it is 11:58 pm here in Winston. That makes it 6:58am in Greece. I think that the first thing I may have to deal with is the time difference. The second thing is the language. The only foreign language I can even begin to work with is Spanish and it is NOTHING like Greek. The alphabet is even different. Louis, Meghan's husband, who happens to be Greek asked me one night at the dinner table what, if anything I would like to learn in Greek. I said, “Hello, my name is Shelley and I do no speak Greek.” He laughed and told me that would be quite evident seeing as how I have blonde hair and blue eyes. After several shots of Ouzo, I learned how to say “Wankers, I want you” in Greek. Louis assured me that I was ready for the trip.

In preparation, I bought a phrase book to use. While perusing it one night, I noticed that it was definitely geared towards Americans. Most of the phrases were about how to ask for certain hotel amenities or how to ask someone to fix something if it was broken. I just wanted to be able to say “hello, I would like a beer.” I can do that in Spanish quite easily. But in Greek, it is like speaking Greek. There is nothing else like it. Luckily, the word for beer is pronounced “bi-ra.” I think I can handle that.